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Anna-Maria von Bonsdorff, co-curator of the exhibition, says: Were showing that early modern artists werent just looking forward to abstraction and to Picasso and Matisse and so on, but they were also looking back, to the gothic art of the northern Renaissance, to painters such as Albrecht Drer, Lucas Cranach the Elder and Hans Holbein. For the artists of 100 years ago, the advent of the machine age brought social upheaval, growing nationalism and the outbreak of world war, and they turned to the gothic to express their unease

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Kramer says it's cheaper to go there to buy cigarettes, but that's about to change